Nitrac discs with carbotech pads

 

Are those pads defo genuine BMW or OE spec from elsewhere? Are those calipers new or sourced used? You'd have to ask why the o/s has appears so much hotter to the degree it melted the paint on the caliper. I did similar with brand new pads and discs and calipers, but was using Brembo pads with their discs and the front and rear were done in 124 miles, the front got so hot without painted calipers, they blistered the wheels slightly on my Web design OE wheels which had been refurbished, also the radiant heat melted the abs sensor outer sheath on the o/s. This was at Oulton park. I swapped the pads to genuine, and have been round Anglesey (quicker car) and although a different circuit, still heavy brake areas and the pads were barely touched, so have to ask.

Otherwise these guys who track more seem to favour Carbotech, so maybe worth a shot, but check you haven't a duff caliper, and that the pads are what you think. Only my2p

 

they are TRW disks and pads which i believe are the company that supply bmw. i did think about the caliper issue and was looking to get some jcw r56 4 pots itsjust finding a pair

 

Go buy BMW pads, if they don't give you a discount I'll be surprised, don't buY value line unless they buy the sensor off you (remembering you upgraded) or go to an indy and ask him to get some for you from BMW

So many people claim rubbish like this and don't have a clue, sorry, TRW might make a carrier or some random part, Pagid might sell a rear pad for an E60 BMW with a certain engine size, Micronair might sell a microfilter for an E90 perhaps, and all of them, suddenly get to be referred to as OE suppliers, that's often because the supplied one item, they are NOT genuine parts for other applications. Only my2p as usual.

 

If I may, there are several things here to address...

1) Braided lines are not really an 'upgrade' or going to influence brake fade. The standard lines should be good enough for the job, all the braided hoses are doing is stopping any swell, which in this case I would imagine to be minor and would feel like spongier pedal. It's not influencing any of the issues you're discussing.

2) The pads and discs you are using are the overriding factor here and not at all up to track work, especially if you are really running the power you say. If you are serious about tracking the car then Nitrac discs with Carbotech pads are worth a look, otherwise consider some Mintex, I do not have experience of Ferodo, I would avoid EBC as I found them to fade and also disintegrate. The discs are almost certainly retaining a lot of heat and failing to disperse it efficiently enough for track use.

3) You mentioned 5.1 fluid, but which one? I have found Typ 200 and Motul RBF 600 to both be completely satisfactory for track use at a 30C ambient temperature and neither are 5.1

4) The R56 front setup you have is this the Cooper S carriers allowing the larger disc diameter? The rears are negligible, R53 are fine, I replaced mine for R56 purely for aesthetics and reliability after twice having R53 rears seize. R56 S fronts with the right pad/disc combination for your use/budget should see you fine.

 

i was looking at some mintex 1144s as ive always used them on jap cars but never tracked, but wasnt sure how they would cope on the mini.

off the top of my head i cant think of the make of fluid but ive already ordered some A P RACING RADI-CAL R3 RACING BRAKE FLUID, as mentioned the caliper could be sticking so do you think the first starting point should be some calipers so they are new, fluid change and then disks and pads?

 

The 1144's aren't much of a track pad, they will cope with some abuse but you may find they give up too if you're aggressive on a short track. You can get Mintex track pads, I think they're F4R or something, 2 NA Cooper race cars with them and slicks put me to shame in the corners but I've never managed to find them online. I also see Lohen sell an 1166 which I've not seen before but claims to be more track based than the 1144's. Might be worth a look, they're fairly affordable.

I wouldn't bother changing the calipers unless you see them sticking, this can be easily diagnosed by one wheel getting dirtier than the others quite quickly.

 

AP r2 fluid (formally ap600) is really good fluid for hard track use

 

What do you mean by cooking the brakes? Brake fade with firm pedal feel or pedal going to the floor? In any case the OE stuff is not going to last at the track, especially if you're running more than stock power.

I run Nitrac DCT grooved discs and Carbotech XP8's with my R53 JCW brakes (which are the same as R56S) and probably about the same bhp as you. With fresh RBF600 fluids the only issue is that center caps and spigot rings tend to melt. Adding hobo brake cooling (remove fogs, cut holes in arch liners, add pieces of air duct hose) stopped the spigot rings from melting.

 

Well on track I felt slight firm pedal fade but not loads and it was only on 2 corners.

But after they had stopped it. I've now got a long pedal.

Brake cooler mod is on the cards to do [emoji16]

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Proper brake technique reduced my issues quite a bit at first.

Did you do cool down laps before going into pits?

I usually track on a short tight outer circuit of a go kart track, so is pretty hard on the brakes, using Brembo discs and EBC Ultimax pads I've never once had it like this, just a long peddle by the end

 

I couldn't I timed it totally wrong and as I came down the back to the pits the flag came out and I had to go in..
Did a few laps of the pits before parking up however

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N/S isn’t smoking so you’ve got to work out what’s wrong with the O/S first. Check the bearings, once they start going there’s a compound heat build up that’ll boil the fluid and melt everything including the CV boot. If the bearings and driveshaft are ok then you probably have a binding caliper or just badly fitted pads. Once you’ve sorted out the problem heat source you need racing fluid, don’t worry about DOT 5, some of the best are DOT4 like Castrol SRF and Motul RBF600/660. For pads you get what you pay for, and the tracks not the place to buy cheap brakes. Carbotech XP10 or 8 are both excellent. For me it’s Pagid RS29 fronts with XP8 rears. Brake cooling ducts are great and will help prevent fade but only once everything else is sorted [emoji106]


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Also bear in mind that brake fluid categorisation is a minefield. Not all fluids in a supposedly superior category are more performant in key respects than those in supposedly lesser categories. Look carefully at the wet and dry boiling points. Accept that for a very performant fluid you are going to be compromising on how hydrophobic a fluid is, and you’ll want to increase the flushing intervals accordingly.


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Half that smoke is probably the paint burning off. It doesn’t look like a good quality high temp paint job.